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Today's Homeowner July/August 2000 article

USE PRUNING shears or tin snips to trip the base strips to
length. Screw 1 ½ -in.-wide base to 2x4 rails.

We installed Phifer Wire's standard black fiberglass insect screening in the openings above the handrail. Below the railings and on the porch door, we installed Phifer's new PetScreen (55 to 68 cents per square foot), a durable material that resists tears and punctures from pet claws. This vinyl-coated polyester is much stronger that standard screening.
Fiberglass and aluminum screening come in a variety of colors. However, black screening is typically the best choice for porches and doors because it's less reflective and offers much better visibility than lighter colors, especially bare aluminum.
We also replaced the warped wood door with Screen Tight's Better Board solid-vinyl screen door. This unit never needs painting and it won't rot, split, or fade. Available at most home centers, it comes in 32- ($58 to $68) and 36-in. ($62 to $72) inches.

PREPARING THE PORCH
Start by using a hammer and flat bar to pry off all the wood battens nailed to the porch framing. On our porch, we removed the horizontal 1x2 battens first (photo 1), then yanked off the vertical 1x4 battens that were nailed to the 4x4 posts (photo 2).
Once you have removed the battens, cut down the old screens with a utility knife. There will be many old tacks and

PULL THE SCREEN fabric tight with one hand as you roll the spline
into the groove in the base strip.
staples left behind, which you can either pull out with pliers or tap flush with a hammer. (We employed both methods to create flat, smooth surfaces.)
Next, fasten a vertical base strip to each porch post with 1-in. screws (photo 3). Put a single screw in each prepunched slot and another one in 2 in. from each end of the strip. The screws should be driven snug but not so tight that they deform the vinyl strips.
(continued)
TRIM AWAY excess screening by drawing a utility knife along the
edge of the raised spline groove.

 

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